Art Galleries
A-Galerii: Hobusepea 2. Good selection of unique local handmade jewelry.
Aatrium: Harju 6, tel.631-0503.
Allee: Pikk 30, tel. 646-4500. Paintings by the pre-war generation.
Diele: Vanaturu kael 3, tel. 641-8043.
Draakon: Pikk 18, tel. 646-4110.
Galerii G: Vabaduse väljak 6, tel. 644-9620.
Galerii Molen: Viru 19, tel. 644-2877.
Galerii Magnon: Vene 19. Contemporary Russian art.
Gallery Viviann Napp: Narva mnt. 15, tel. 662-3485.
Haus Gallery: Uus 17, 641-9471.
Hobusepea: Hobusepea 2. Exhibitions of Estonian art.
Kunstihoone: Vabaduse väljak 6/8.
Linnagalerii: Harju 13, tel. 644-1388.
Lühikese Jala Galerii: Lühike jalg 6, tel. 631-4720.
Mustpeade Galerii: Pühavaimu 9.
Navitrolla Galerii: Pikk Jalg 7, tel. 631-3716.
Portaal: Vene 16, tel. 646-4209.
Tauno Kangro Sculpture Studio: Uus 20, tel. 641-1002. Open: Mon.-Fri. 10-17. Tauno Kangro is one of Estonia’s very best artists—specializing in bronze sculptures. This place is an absolute must see!
Museums
Most museums are closed on Mon. and Tue. Opening hours are usually from 10 to 18. You can also find information at www.ekm.ee.
Adamson-Eric Museum: Lühike jalg 3, tel. 644-5838. A permanent exhibition of the work of a leading Estonian artist Adamson-Eric (1902-1968).
Archaeology Museum: Rüütli 10, tel. 644-4805. Early Estonian history.
Doll Museum: Kotzebue 16, tel. 641-3491. Open Wed.-Sun. 10:30-17:30.
Energy Center: Põhja pst. 29, tel. 715-2650. Open:Mon.-Sat. 10-17. Interactive technology and science related hands-on, minds-on exhibits and programs.
Estonian Art Museum (House of the Knighthood): Kiriku plats 1, on Toompea; tel. 644-9340. Open: Wed.-Sun. 11-18. History of Estonian fine arts.
Estonian Bank Museum: Estonia 11, tel. 668-0760.
Estonian Photography Museum: Raekoja 4/6, tel. 644-6553. In the old city prison.
Health Museum: Lai 28/30, tel. 641-1732. Open: Tue.-Sat. 11-18. Interactive displays about all the systems of the human body and more.
Historical Museum: Pikk 17, old city; tel. 641-1630. Early Estonian history.
Kadriorg Palace: Weizenbergi 37, tel. 606-6400. Open: Tue.-Sun. 10-17. International fine arts collection of the Estonian Art Museum in the newly-restored Baroque palace that Peter the Great had built for Catherine.
Kiek-in-de-Kök: Komandandi tee 2, tel. 644-6686. Good photo exhibits.
Kristjan Raud Museum: Kristjan Raua 8, in Nõmme; tel. 670-0023. The works of pre-war painter Kristjan Raud, celebrated for his illustrations of the Kalevipoeg epic.
Maarjamäe Palace: Pirita tee 56, tel. 601-4535. A museum of Estonian history over the last hundred years.
Maritime Museum: Pikk 70, inside the Paks Margareeta fortification tower; tel. 641-1408. An excellent museum, and a must for shipping buffs!
Mikkel Museum: Weizenbergi 28; tel. 601-5844. Private art collection.
Mine Museum: Uus 37, tel. 641-1408. Open: Wed.-Sun. 10-18. Exhibit of mines of different origin dating to WW I.
Museum of Estonian Applied Arts: Lai 17, tel. 641-1927.
Museum of Estonian Architecture: in the Rotermann Salt Storage, Ahtri 2, tel. 625-7000.
Museum of Occupations: Toompea 8, tel. 668-0250. Open: Tue.-Sun. 11-18. A must museum, focused both the Soviet and Nazi occupations.
Natural History Museum: Lai 29, tel. 641-1739. Estonian wildlife.
St. Nicholas Church and Concert Hall: Niguliste 13, tel. 644-9911. Medieval art, including Berndt Notke’s Death Dance.
Peter the Great House Museum: Mäekalda 2, in Kadriorg Park; tel. 644-4553. Open: Wed.-Sun. 10.30-18. A humble house where Peter the Great stayed during his visit to Tallinn with his personal items on display.
Tallinn City Museum: Vene 17, tel. 644-6553. In a medieval merchant’s house; exhibits about Tallinn’s history.
Tammsaare Museum: Koidula 12a, tel. 601-3232; in Kadriorg. The home of Estonia’s most celebrated writer Anton Hansen Tammsaare (1878-1940) gives a good overview of his life and work.
Theater and Music Museum: Müürivahe 12, tel. 644-2132.
Symphonies/Choirs/Opera
Performances take place somewhere every night. The mainstays are the Estonian National Symphony Orchestra, the Symphony Orchestra of the Tallinn Conservatory, the Philharmonic Chamber Choir and Tallinn’s Chamber Orchestra. There’s also the Estonian-Finnish Symphony Orchestra (run by Kadri Tali and directed by Anu Tali) and early music ensemble Hortus Musicus. Watch for concerts by the remarkable Estonian National Male Choir or the girls’ choir Ellerhein.
Estonia Concert Hall is the venue for many concerts, at Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614-7760; www.concert.ee. The Concert Hall ticket office also sells tickets for performances all over town. Next door is the beautiful Estonia Theater—housing the opera and ballet; tel. 626-0260;
Classical music concert venues include the House of the Brotherhood of Blackheads, at Pikk 26, tel. 631-3199; www.mustpeademaja.ee; the Kadriorg Palace, at Weizenbergi 37; the Kanut Guild Hall, Pikk 20; St. Nicholas Church, at Niguliste 3, St. Catherine’s Church, at Vene 12-14; the Town Hall, Raekoja plats 1. Pop music concerts often take place at Saku Suurhall, at Paldiski mnt. 104b, tel. 660-0200; www.sakusuurhall.ee; and at Linnahall, Mere pst. 20; www.linnahall.ee; in the summer, there are huge pop concerts at the outdoor Song Festival Grounds, just beyond Kadriorg; Michael Jackson performed there in 1997, and the Rolling Stones in 1998.
Tickets
Estonia Concert Hall, at Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614-7760, sells tickets to classical performances; info@concert.ee; www.concert.ee. Get tickets to major events at the Kaubamaja Ticket Center, (J-4) Gonsiori 2, tel. 667-3337; www.piletipunkt.ee; and all Selvers. For big rock concerts, try Piletilevi at Rävala 6, at Sireen bookshop; tel. 0900-1555 (8 kroons per min); www.piletilevi.ee. You can buy tickets for concerts in Scandinavia through Lippupalvelu at Stockmann shopping center, Liivalaia 53.
Cinemas
The info service Ekspress Hotline can tell you what’s showing, tel. 1182. Films are in original languages with subtitles.
Coca-Cola Plaza Hobujaama 5, next to the main post office. By far the biggest, most high-tech theater; 11 screens.
Kinomaja: Uus 3, tel. 646-4510. Cult and lots of foreign films.
Kosmos: Pärnu mnt. 45, call 1182 for schedules. Hollywood hits.
Sõprus: Vana-Posti 8, tel. 644-1919. Hollywood, plus lots of Disney.
TTÜ Sütiste Saal: Sütiste tee 21, tel. 626-8110. Digital cinema.
Luminaries
Marie Under (1883-1980) is regarded by many as Estonia’s greatest modern poet. Her work during Estonia’s period of independence was highly acclaimed, but it was her writing from exile about the pain of exile that appears to be her most enduring work.
Lennart Meri, 70, is a celebrated Estonian writer, film director and philosopher; he’s also the current Estonian president. He won acclaim in the ’70s and ’80s for his impressionistic anthropological films on obscure Finno-Ugric tribes in the USSR. (Meri’s father, Georg, was the leading post-war translator of Shakespeare.)
Veljo Tormis, 69, is celebrated for his revival of an ancient, chanting-style song—the runic. His ingenious, many-layered choral compositions are progressive yet harken back to something primordial.
Alo Mattiisen (1961-1996) was a highly influential pop music composer of the late ’80s. He wrote pro-independence rock songs that became virtual anthems during the independence drive.
Mark Soosaar, 52, is Estonia’s premier documentary maker. He has chronicled sweeping changes here by focusing on the lives of colorful individuals. He is founder of the Charlie Chaplin Cultural Center, in Pärnu’s old Communist headquarters.
Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald (1803-1882) was the main author of the national epic Kalevipoeg. It’s had a huge influence on modern Estonian culture.
Jaan Kross, 77, has often been nominated for the Nobel literature prize. His best novels explore the dilemma of intellectuals trying to keep their Estonian identity under German or Russian rule.
Neeme Järvi, 60, is a top international conductor and now director of Detroit’s Symphony Orchestra. Järvi, 60, has helped promote works by Estonian composers, including Rudolf Tobias and Veljo Tormis.
Anton Hansen Tammsaare (1878-1940) is arguably Estonia’s greatest writer of all time. His Dostoyevskian novels in the 1930s—especially Truth and Justice—helped define modern Estonian values.
Lydia Koidula (1843-1886) is perhaps Estonia’s most beloved poetess. Her romantic poems about Estonia fueled the National Awakening in the 1800s.
Arvo Pärt, 62, is one of the most innovative composers of the 20th century. His works echo religious music of the Middle Ages. His better known compositions are Tabula rasa and St. John’s Passion.
Bars
Amsterdam: Pärnu mnt. 16, tel. 631-3215, near the Scandic Hotel Palace. Open:11-22; Thu.-Sat. 11-24. A Dutch-style pub that feels like below deck on a 19th century merchant ship. Gets a bit smoky, so militant non-smokers should probably go elsewhere. Once a hot spot, Amsterdam is, well, less hot now.
Arizona Saloon: Viru 6, tel. 627-2987. Open:08-01; Fri., Sat. 08-02. A Finnish-run Western-theme bar, service by Estonian cowgirls.
Beer House: Dunkri 5, tel. 627-6520. Open: Sun.-Tue. 10-24; Wed-Thu. 10-02; Fri.-Sat. 10-24. What used to be Raeköök is now a sometimes raucous and fun German beer hall and micro-brewery (a Tallinn first). A vast, country-inn interior, with German and Estonian schlager music ever roaring in the background. Be sure to try the surprising in-house beer. Country food at very good prices. When the weather’s good, sit on the giant outdoor terrace.
Café VS: Pärnu mnt. 28; tel. 627-2627. Open:10-01; Fri. 10-03, Sat. 12-03, Sun. 13-01. A futuristic scenario from a Terminator movie is supported by stainless steel tables and eerie violet lighting. In ways, it resembles the excellent Nobody Writes to the Colonel in Riga with its heavy-industrial interior. The downstairs bar feels like a cross between a World War II bunker and below deck on a supertanker. At night, a DJ spins high-energy tunes, and there’s room to dance. Food quality is better than at many ostensibly posh Tallinn restaurants—unexpectedly excellent Indian dishes. A perfect place for lunch, and not bad for dinner.
Citypub: (J-4) Rävala 6, across from the Radisson SAS hotel; tel. 681-4615. Open:11-22. This minimalist Italian-style pub is best suited for lunch or a quick cup of coffee.
Club Avenüü: Suur-Karja 10, tel. 644-1019. Open 24 hours.
Depeche Mode: Nunne 4, tel. 50-23-615, in the old city. Open:11-01; Fri., Sat 11-04, Sun. 11-24. A mostly undistinguished bar unless, that is, you happen to love its British band namesake—in which case this place is heavenly. Music: Depeche Mode, Depeche Mode and, later at night—Depeche Mode.
The Englishman Pub: Liivalaia 33, in the Reval Hotel Olümpia; tel. 631-5831. Open:09-01; Sat. 16-03. The Englishman Pub has gone so far as to offer bridge lessons; ask the bartenders for cards and a quick introduction on how to play. The drawing room atmosphere includes cricket pictures and golf trophies. This is one of the only pubs in town that sees fit to play whole Beatles albums as background music. Current British newspapers.
George Browne’s: Harju 6, just inside the old city, tel. 631-0516. Open.10-01; Thu., Fri. 10-02; Sat. 11-02, Sun. 11-24. Well located and Irish-pub paraphernalia. Crummy pop music.
Guitar Safari: Müürivahe 22, tel. 627-0186; old city. Open:12-03; Sat. 14-03, Sun. 13-03. A very good cellar bar for thirty-, forty-somethings—or anyone who can actually tell Led Zeppelin from a hole in the ground. More of a music club, Guitar Safari emphasizes middle-class American rock. The main hall is comfortable, with high cavernous ceilings and a stage. Live bands: mostly local rock, blues and country.
Havana Club: Pikk 11; old city; tel. 640-6630. Open:11-02; Fri., Sat. 11-04. Hip, uppity; Latin music.
Harley Davidson: Dunkri 11/Rataskaevu 9; old city; tel. 631-4028. Open:10-24; Fri., Sat. 10-02. Biker theme, red-bricks, candles. Favors safe rock’n’roll—like the Eagles.
Hell Hunt: Pikk 39, tel. 681-8333. Open:12-til last guest. One of Estonia’s first and oldest pubs was recently renovated—giving the place a slightly more modern, breezier feel. The vibes are still good ones: excellent background music (Irish to jazz) and candlelight; old shed doors make up the innovative ceiling. They have good pub grub, including fried herb cheese and even tongue-bacon roulade with cranberry jam. There’s a large-screen TV on one wall that often shows big soccer matches. While the name Hell Hunt sounds like a Stephen King novel, it actually means gentle wolf in Estonian.
Hole 19: Rävala pst. 7, tel. 648-4027. Open:11-24. This golf-themed pub is packed to the ceiling with putters, framed magazine covers, and other golf-related kitsch. Hole 19 seems to cater to luncheoning yuppies. The focus is on comfort food; the Tandoori chicken filet, for instance, comes with applesauce and French fries. The only thing lacking here is irony, and if you don’t mind the slightly tacky and anomalous decor, it’s a good place for a snack or beer.
Imperial Pub: Nunne 14, tel. 627-4800. Open:10-02. An above-average pub in one of Tallinn’s newer hotels. It claims to be Irish but falls somewhat short of the mark. Still, if you’re in the neighborhood, or certainly if you are staying at this hotel, this isn’t at all a bad place for a beer or pint of house Guinness.
Jussi Õlletuba: Liilia 2, tel. 623-8696 in Merivälja, 15 minutes by car from Tallinn, just past the railway tracks on Merivälja tee. Open:11-24; Fri., Sat. 11-01. A pub with a friendlier feel than many area bars. Owned by a lawyer and frequented by his friends and clients. The food is tasty, and well–priced. Billiards, too.
Kloostri Ait: Vene 14, in the old city, tel. 644-6887. Open:12-23:30. An excellent spacious, slightly Bohemian bar in a former Medieval warehouse. They often have live music at night, from jazz to Estonian folk. Recently reopened after major renovations.
Kolumbus Krisostomus: Viru 24; in the old city; tel. 561-56924. Open:12-01; Sun., Mon. 12-23. A pub/restaurant. Roaring fireplace and surrounding walls painted orange and yellow, dotted with red rabbits - giving it all the look of a brightly colored Swedish quilt. On a recent evening, they opted for funky '90s rock as background music; it was played at slightly too high a volume for a pub that would otherwise be ideal for long heart-to-heart chats. Occasional live music.
Kompressor: Rataskaevu 3; old city, tel. 646-4210. Open:11-01; Fri.-Sat. 11-03. A breezy interior and, under the bar, an air compressor (Kompressor pub, get it?) MTV projected onto a far wall. Progressive pop/retro blasts out of a good stereo system. They’re shooting for a twenty-something audience. Service is on and off.
Levist Väljas: Olevimägi 12, in the old city. Open:15-01; Fri., Sat. 15-03. This gritty, bohemian den is a refreshing change of pace for Tallinn. After renovations, it’s more comfortable—though (thankfully) still has a distinctive underground feel. They spurn Top 40 hits here in favor of progressive rock, good-taste house and even blues; on one recent evening, they threw a Tom Waits album on. The counter culture spills in from the dark cobblestone streets as the clock approaches midnight.
Lost Continent: Narva mnt. 19, tel. 662-3665. Open:11-24; Thu.-Sat. 11-01. Australian-theme bar: boomerangs, even kangaroo hides. Considering the ugly road it’s next to, the interior’s unexpectedly stylish, a mix of industrial and ranch design. Music ranges from Midnight Oil to AC/DC to folk. There’s a huge video screen, pool table and dance floor. The food’s good; try the curry fillet with fried bananas. Australian beer, too.
Lounge 8: Vana-Posti 8; in the old city, adjacent to the Hollywood nightclub; tel. 627-4770. Open:12-24; Fri., Sat. 12-04. A new, ultra trendy hangout. It’s a possible contender with the more established Pegasus (below) for the title of the hippest place in town. Lounge 8 is essentially a cocktail bar, featuring giant sofas and warm Mediterranean colors; good indirect lighting, lots of plants, and glass separators. It’s a good alternative to Tallinn’s many smoke-filled and blaring-loud pubs and discos. This is a place to strike a pose, to flunt your wealth and beauty—or to at least pretend that you possess both. Usually modern but soothing background music.
Madissoni Grill & Bar: (J-4) Rävala pst. 3, next to the Radisson SAS Hotel; tel. 669-0400. Open:11-02; Sun.-Tue.11-01. Extremely tasteful, open and comfortable atmosphere: high windows, and always good background music. Thanks in part to the Radisson connection, they have amongst the best pub food in Tallinn. Live music several times a month. A nice cocktail bar/lounge upstairs.
McCools: Suur-Karja 20/Pärnu mnt. 12, tel. 640-3548. Open:10:30-02; Fri., Sat. 10:30-04. A big, breezy pub complex—that also has a lounge and wine bar. They have a gigantic TV screen looming above the bar that often plays music videos. A swanky, New York City feel. It seems to cater to 20- and 30-somethings on the prowl.
Molly Malone’s: Mündi 2, in the old city, tel. 631-3016. Open:11-02; Fri., Sat. 11-04. A Nordic version of an Irish pub. But it isn’t spiritless: original aluminum Guinness adverts hanging on the dark wood interior. Many clientele are tourists who spill in from the cobblestone streets. This means Molly Malone’s lacks a certain local flavor, but it’s lively. The place has a view other bars would kill for: of the Town Hall.
Nimega Baar (Bar With a Name): Suur-Karja 13, the old city; tel. 620-9299. Open:11-02; Fri., Sat. 11-04. Bar With a Name shoots a little higher than its fine sister bar (below), appealing to a slightly older, more discriminating pub crawler. A major draw is the live music, featuring Estonia’s best blues and rock bands. This is also a good place for a meal; they serve Estonia’s best chili. Question: Isn’t Bar With a Name still a bar with no name?
Nimeta Bar (Bar With No Name): Suur-Karja 4/6, tel. 641-1515. Open: 11-02; Fri., Sat. 11-04. A long-time standout that’s fun as ever. A great bar for sports lovers; includes a big-screen TV. There's also a dance floor. This place is a big favorite with ex-pats.
O’Malley’s: Viru 24, old city; tel. 631-3136. Open:09-24; Fri., Sat. 09-02. An average Irish pub.
Pegasus: Harju 1, in the old city; tel. 631-4040. Ultra-hip, with the reputation of catering to Tallinn's beautiful (and rich) people. But also fun for mere mortals.
R.I.F.F. (I-4) Viru väljak 6, in the Viru Keskus, tel. 610-1430. Open:11-24; nightclub open: Wed., Thu. 22-04; Fri., Sat. 22-06. Se DINING OUT for details on this excellent new bar/restaurant/nightclub.
Saku Sops: Estonia pst. 3/5, tel. 660-4879. Open:11-24; Fri. 11-02; Sat. 12-24; Sun. 12-22. A spacious sports bar.
Scotland Yard: (H-4) Mere pst. 6e, just outside the old city; tel. 653-5190. Open:12-24; Thu.-Sat. 12-03. A pub modeled after an old Scottish pub, only it’s bigger—stretching in all directions. A tip-off to the Scotland Yard theme are waitresses’ totting handcuffs. There’s a stage for live music and a dance floor, as well as a giant fish tank over the bar. Scotland Yard achieves the unlikely feat of being both vast and cozy. Good range of pub food, too.
Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt: Tartu mnt. 44, by Central Market; tel. 601-0762. Open:11-24; Thu.-Sat. 11-02. A good down-home Estonian pub tucked in an unexpectedly lovely courtyard. The interior, with its high barnyard ceilings, is on the mark. Background music can slip into Big Bang techno, but otherwise favors mellow rock. Quite good pub food, too.
Soti Klubi (Scottish Club): Uus 33, tel. 641-1666. Open:12-24; Sun. closed. Great selection of single malt Scotches. Members-only, but they set aside a few hours a day for the general public. Where Estonian VIPs and VIP wannabes meet to fortify the ol’ boys network.
St. Patrick’s: Two locations near each other in the old city, including a new one at Suur-Karja 8, and the other at Vana-Posti 7, old city; tel. 631-4801. Open:11-02; Fri., Sat. 11-04. The new place on Suur-Karja has the same good Irish feel, but is bigger and in a show-stopping, gorgeous medieval-era merchant house. Ireland's got nothing on this place.
Sveiki Juures: Uus 25, the old city; tel. 641-1021. Open:11-24. This place, named after a Czech cartoon character, is a boisterous den of beer-swilling party animals—and darn proud of it. They have whitewashed walls that they encourage you to deface by scrawling your name on them. If you’re looking for a place to sit back and philosophize in a serene environment, this is definitely not your place. Clientele are likely to break into song at any moment.
Von Krahli Theater Bar: Rataskaevu 10, in the old city; tel. 626-9096. Open:12-01; Fri., Sat. 12-03. A hip, fun-filled bar/nightclub. Many up-and-coming bands play here. A wonderful range of music, from blues to house to heavy metal to punk.
Wellington Pub: Maakri 19/21; tel. 661-2612. Open:11-23; Fri.-Sat. 11-01; Sun. 12-23. An English feeling English pub. A surprise find amid the neighborhood’s brooding glass-and-steel buildings.
X-Baar: Sauna 1, old city; tel. 620-9266. Open:14-01. One of Tallinn’s few gay bars. Despite the wall-to-wall pink paint, it has a classy feel. The music is good; lots of sultry jazz.
Wine Cellars
Barons Wine Bar: Suur-Karja 7/Väike-Karja 2, tel. 699-9700.
Caballero: (I-4) Mere pst. 6e, tel. 660-1818. Open: Sun.-Thu. 12-24, Fri.-Sat. 12-01. Owned by a local wine importer, Grape. They have some wine that's not otherwise available in stores. They also serve cheeses and snacks. Excellent views of the city from the upper floor. A separate room for cigar smoking.
Excelsior Vinoteek: Niguliste 6, in the old city; tel. 631-3891. Open:12-24. A fine wine bar. Soft music, soft lighting.
Gloria Veinikelder (Gloria Wine Cellar): Müürivahe 2, old city; tel. 644-8846. Open:11-23. This could be the best wine cellar in the Baltics-and it's gotten even better with recent renovations that expanded into additional basement crevices. Gloria Wine Cellar is now a lot more than a wine cellar: it's a full-fledged restaurant with a full menu of delicacies masterminded by Estonia's highly celebrated restaurateur, Dmitri Demjanov-who also owns the outstanding Egoist and Gloria (which is just upstairs.) There's a gorgeous fireplace here, though you may have to fight other customers for the extreme pleasure of sitting next to it. As before, Gloria Wine Cellar still features fine classical music, candlelight and turn-of-the-century furniture.
Kolme näoga mees (A Man with Three Faces): Kuninga 1, tel. 648-4261. Open:12-23; Fri., Sat. 12-24. Extremely romantic atmosphere, with hints of a left-bank Paris dive and a medieval-era den. Small and comfortably cluttered with cushions, cast-iron chairs and tapestries. Serves wine, but also pastries and coffee—so it could also double as a cafe. Friendly staff that is knowledgeable about wine. Soft jazz as background music. Live Spanish guitarist Fri. and Sat. night.
McCools Wine Bar: Suur-Karja 23/Pärnu mnt. 12, tel. 640-3548. Open:17-02; Fri., Sat. 17-04.
Veinipööning (Wine Attic): Viru 18; tel. 641-8631. This wine bar is a little hard to get to; you have to climb four flights of stairs to reach the attic. They only open at 16.00, so don't waste your breath until after that. Its slight inaccessibility is part of the charm of this homey wine-swilling den. It's got the feel of a '30s living room, with the quaintness of a forgotten loft. The music is generally dead on-blues and jazz, with occasional interventions by Frank Sinatra or a '60s band. Part of the charm of this place is that so few people seem to know about it-which helps keep out the riff-raff and maintain the moody vibes. So, after you read this, please don't tell anyone else.
Cigar Lounges
La Casa Del Habano: Dunkri 2, the old city; tel. 644-5647. Open:10-24; Sun. 12-18. There’s no place quite like this cigar lounge/bar anywhere in the Baltics! They almost certainly have the region’s most impressive selection of cigars—all of which are meticulously stored in a high-tech cellar humidor. (They also now have a humidor/sales outlet at the Radisson SAS hotel.) The House of Havana teems with atmosphere, friendly faces—and cigar smoke. It’s become the meeting place of choice for many resident ex-pats. The management keeps any rowdy riff-raff at bay by serving costlier cocktails. The heart of The House of Havana, the bar, feels like someone’s living room—softly lit, with a red-brick floor and Nigerian art. To remind you that Cuba is its main inspiration, there’s a photo of Che Guevara at the bar. While you’re chatting, or playing chess on the house board, you’re almost obliged to have a cigar. The choice of Cuban brands is vast: they include Bolivar, Montecristo, Cohiba, Punch, La Gloria, and Romeo y Julietas—said to have been Churchill’s favorite. Once you’re hooked on Cubans, you might not be able to touch lesser cigars again. Habano’s website offers the uninitiated primers on how to identify a good cigar and how to smoke it once you do. Among their sage advice: “When you have finished savoring your Havana cigar, don’t stub it out. Leave it in an ashtray and it will die out by itself—with dignity.”
Sigari Maja: Raekoja plats 16, old town; tel. 631-4735. Cigar House has an old-world feel: paneled walls, leather couches, medieval beams and a fire place; the candle-lit room could be the set of a Hollywood murder mystery; you can imagine Sherlock Holmes here accusing the butler of doing it. They've got butlers, too, of sorts; waiters don black vests and, with a white glove, they light your cigars with the attentiveness of a brain surgeon.
Off the Beaten Track
Nõmme Kõrts: 40 km south of Tallinn towards Rapla, off the Tallinn-Rapla road. Look for the Nõmme Kõrts sign; tel. 485-8096. Open:12-24; Sat., Sun. 12-02. An old inn that’s changed little since disgruntled serfs got drunk here and burned down nearby German manor houses in the 1800s. No more German landlords left to harass, but fun nonetheless. Down-home atmosphere; live country music on weekends. Ask about the log-cabin guesthouse, with a wood-burning sauna that will thrill sauna lovers.
Biker Pub: (C-1) Ülase 13A, southwest of the old city. A pub with a Harley theme. More authentic then you’d imagine—with Harleys out front and bikers at the bar with “Hells Angels” scrawled on their leather jackets. It’s in what must have been an auto repair shop; the whole place has a surprisingly civilized feel. Music’s ZZ Top to KISS.
Bulldog Pub: Jaama 2, in Nõmme, a 15-minute drive south of the city center, tel. 6504-123. It’s become a favorite of some resident ex-pats. Billiards and table-soccer. They serve a mean peppered steak.
What's to Drink
The most popular beer in Estonia is Saku Originaal; Saku also makes a fine dark porter, called Saku Tume, and also recently launched a very good, much lighter-tasting beer called Saku on Ice; some say it’s reminiscent of Miller Light. Tartu-brand beers are also good; Tartu Alexander and A.Le Coq-series are especially highly regarded.
There are spirits aplenty. Many say the best locally-produced vodka is Viru Valge. The Estonia-bottled Georgian brandy, called Gremi, is also a favorite. Saare Džinn, a gin flavored with berries from the Estonian islands, is also popular.
Estonia’s national liqueur is the uniquely flavored Vana Tallinn. Detractors say it tastes a bit like cough syrup, but others swear by it; taking it with beer or coffee softens the kick a bit; there’s also an nice ice cream made with Vana Tallinn.
Because Estonia has no big wine industry to protect, there are virtually no restrictions on wine imports. This means the choice of international wines here is outstanding. The few locally-made wines, like the Põltsamaa brand, tend to be on the sweet side. Põltsamaa now also makes a sweet sparkling wine Fest.
As for bar snacks, many establishments serve run-of-the-mill peanuts and chips. But the quintessential Estonian bar snack has to be soolaoad, or salted beans. Dried, salted fish—complete with eyes, fins and tails—are also served at many local bars.
Bands
Among some of the better bands and soloists to keep your eye out for while you're in Estonia:
Johanson Brothers: Godly folk sound. Acoustic guitar accompaniment.
Smilers: Ol’ fashioned, but high-energy, rock and roll. Lead singer Hendrik Sal-Saller (who’s also made a name for himself in Finland) is outstanding.
Lindpriid: Specializing in pop/folk music from before and during World War II. Professional, sublime sound—despite the apparent simplicity. For enthusiasts of ’30s and ’40s music, their albums are a must.
Ultima Thule: Arguably Estonia’s best rock band; fantastic instrumentals and creativity. Lead singers Riho Sibul and Tõnis Mägi are first-rate, world-class. Songs on their Ultima Thule album are good to spectacular.
Tanel Padar and Dave Benton: The surprising Eurovision 2001 winners. Pop, obviously, but solid and soulful.
Jäääär (Jääboiler): Professional folk/rock without the schlock of lesser Estonian bands. Excellent instrumentation; intelligent lyrics.
Blacky: A dashing woman with a gravelly, Joplin-esque voice. Rock mainstream.
Maarja: Pop soloist with a voice like a bell.
Ines: Said to be an Estonian Britney Spears; equally vacuous song lyrics, but still fun.
Urb Brothers: Refreshing sound, great harmonies. A touch of Peter, Paul and Mary. Outstanding!
Hedvig Hanson: Blues, jazz, rock. Music agents combing Estonia for talent just have to see Hanson in action.
Saxappeal Band: An excellent jazz band—Dixieland to Fusion. A great dance band.
Jaxy: Very good, Chris-Rea feel.
Siiri Sisask: Good-taste, funky pop.
Compromise Blue: Heavy blues. Great horn section. Great drummer.
Tõnis Mägi: A national treasure. Ą la Billy Joel, he often performs solo on piano.
Vennaskond: Good progressive punk.
Kukerpillid: Pop country/folk music.
Justament: Good country/folk.
Terminaator: Rockers with attitude.
Rock Hotel/Ivo Linna: Grandpas of Estonian rock. Sounds of the ’60s.
Mr. Lawrence: The Estonian U2.
Blind: A good Estonian pop/rock band.
Untsakad: Folk ą la accordion.
Folkmill: Another good folk band.
Psychoterror: Good punk.
Dallas: New wave meets bossa nova.
Noorkuu: A cappella pop.
Jüri Homenja: Sings love-songs in Estonian, Russian and Italian.
